Paris Fashion Week began on February 28th with some of the hottest French couture brands releasing their long awaited collections. Saint Laurent opened Paris Fashion Week with one word: elegance. Anthony Vacerello, the brand’s creative director, brought elegance to the runway with elements of sophisticated style and taste. Vacerello stated, “Maybe elegance is something we have no sense of today. Maybe we don’t care about it. Maybe it has some other meaning, or maybe it has no meaning at all. But I really wanted to bring that idea of being dressed.” Unlike Saint Laurent’s previous shows which have taken place in lavish locations such as Morocco, the brand resorted back to its original roots in Paris. The show took place at the Intercontinental Hotel where the fashion house held shows from 1975-2001. The runway was lined with extravagant candle chandeliers, creating a contemporary atmosphere. The nostalgic feel contrasted old and new with the runway featuring reflective gold panels to draw focus to the couture.
Every aspect of this collection reflected a common image of sophisticated tailoring and nostalgic representation of the iconic YSL image. The collection included exaggerated broad shoulders on each blazer, similar to their previous menswear collection. Many of the featured looks paired these blazers with an above the knee skirt; a piece that hasn’t yet been seen by the brand. Cashmere leggings and black tights, both signature to the brand’s look, were also paired with the many amplified blazers.
The standing point of this collection was Vacerello’s ability to construct redefined draping of blouses connected with bold jewelry pieces. Many compared the draping of fabrics on different blouses to statues of Greek gods. Silhouettes were present throughout the runway, as many of the pieces focused on small details that stood out to viewers. The sharp cut tailoring showed Vacerello’s ability to take masculine themes and intertwine them with chic womenswear. Other pieces gave a Superman-like feel with long draped cloth that caressed the floor of the runway as models walked. Saint Laurent’s ability to combine business and A-line dresses made this collection one of the most notable to date.
Here you can watch Saint Laurent’s Fall 2023 Collection.